La Roque Saint-Christophe en Dordogne » The nightlife of Roque Saint-Christophe: The Enchanted Rock

Discover “La Roche Enchantée,” a sound and light tour on the Grande Terrasse of La Roque Saint-Christophe, the largest rock shelter in Europe.
Along this 300-meter poetic walk, let yourself be guided by Guilhem the illuminator, who will tell you about his era and his travels through the Middle Ages.
Sixteen tableaux are projected alternately onto the rock, each revealing a story, anecdotes, and historical facts, for a fun and educational experience.
Here is the text you’ll hear: it will help you follow the tour and ensure you don’t miss any of the wonders of La Roche Enchantée.

Map of the paintingspaintings

01 Guilhem, the highlighter

Guilhem enlmineur

Noble travelers, let me guide you with my words echoing through the ages from a very distant past. Now, on this starry night, and through this enchanted tunnel, here we are in the year of grace one thousand six hundred. My name is Guilhem. Beautifully, I offer you my cordial greetings. I am a painter, illuminator, and fresco artist. This gift grants me the privilege of creating beautiful scenes on the walls of churches, cathedrals, and many castles. It is nature that offers me its colors: blue comes from azurite, red from cinnabar, ochre from oxidized stones. Thus crushed, I obtain pigments offering me a thousand hues. The waltz of colors is infinite: red and blue impose violet, red and yellow offer orange, blue and yellow fertilize green! Through these paintings, let yourself be told what once gave life to this enchanted rock. In “imagination,” is there not the word “magic”? Follow me, my fellow dreamers. Remain calm, speak in low voices, and keep your steps vigilant, for the ground is littered with many holes and hollows, remnants of the citadel of yesteryear.

02 The Medicinal Garden

Allow me to introduce you to Antòni, herbalist, poet, and storyteller. He roamed the hills and woods, picking his magical plants at dusk. He mastered the art of “simples,” those herbal teas that heal or enchant. Before the great dismantling, he was a healer at La Roque Saint-Christophe, and my most precious friend. The villagers brought him the fruits of the forest or their flowerbed plants so that he could make ointments and invigorating potions! This enchanter with the long, frost-colored beard rescued me many times from nasty fevers or strange ailments. At nightfall, around a wood fire warming the peasant after his exhausting day, he took the time to tell us stories of times gone by, bringing to life the legends and marvelous creatures that sheltered our forests. So I painted for you this first scene, paying homage to Antòni, herbalist, poet, and enchanter. Between you and me, I suspect him somewhat of having bewitched my pigments, giving life to the frescoes that I present to you here. During your journey, companions of reverie, if you happen to come across some magic, without a doubt the cause would be the presence of Antòni.

04 The Troubadours

This terrace overlooking the valley, dug since the dawn of time, is now inhabited only by the wind, flown over by many buzzards, black kites, sparrowhawks and falcons nesting in the alcoves. At nightfall, it is the barn owls or the long-eared owls that come to find refuge there. But so recently, many a household, church and castle of great renown stood here! The Lords of La Roque, it is said, held banquets and great festivals. Our best troubadours came here from all over Occitania! I saw, with my own eyes, this gigantic bear, standing proudly on its hind legs, alongside this sparkling saltarella on the platform. In the light of the scarlet moon, I thought I felt my heart swoop for its delicate beauty. Or was it the delight of his whirling dance and the intoxicating rhythm of the minstrels accompanying him? By my faith, companions of reveries, my heart fills with joy! Enjoy with me one last time this joyful acrobat twirling his balls in beautiful juggling.

05 Le banquet

06 la princesse

A few steps from my fresco of the troubadours, flickering candles illuminate a long table of aged wood. Imagine, seated beside us, these handsome lords, these noble ladies, and these valiant knights! They quench their thirst with the finest nectars and feast on the most delicate dishes! Observe these dishes, my friends, and imagine this flamboyant feast… But, could it be a trick of our old Antòni? In these hollowed-out wooden bowls, see, dear companions, these fantastic victuals appear as if by magic… In the neighboring alcove, I present to you the portrait of our guests, all surrounded by colorful flowers, just as my brush loves to immortalize them! Yes, in the wind float the distant echoes of laughter and murmurs of their guests… In this moment of great joy, dear friends, I like to share with you these moments of celebration, suspended in time as we are from the top of our dear cliff with a thousand dreams and fabulous memories.

06 Damoiselle Isabeau and the Courtier Knights

Oh, but let me tell you about one of the most prestigious and romantic tournaments that our dear cliff has ever known. Hear, dear friends, this story as our dear Antòni took pleasure in telling me during an evening by the fireside, the secret of which was his. The beautiful and charming Isabeau, a damsel of the court of Adhémar de La Roque, was, it is said, all sugar and honey. Her natural beauty attracted many glances. It was then that two valiant knights faced each other in fine palaver in order to deserve the honor of jousting in the tournament and to obtain her favors. The first was a damsel with a fleece of embers sporting a lion with sharp claws. The other was a rough, iron-clad knight bearing a dragon for a coat of arms.
“Oh, Lady, to your peerless beauty, No heart can remain awake.”
“Noble Lady, do not listen to this futile lion, Blinded by youth and useless pride.”
“Like a lion, I am ready to fight for honor, And for you, noble lady, to overcome my fear.”
“Let him bark and hear my wisdom. Only a dragon can honor such a beautiful princess.”
Then it happened that the beautiful Lady Isabeau rose from her seat and declared: “Knights, your words have moved me. I am burning with impatience to see your prowess in the tournament. May the best among you triumph and win my heart.” Indeed, just a stone’s throw away, I have transcribed this tournament into a mad fresco…

06 -bis The tournament

le tournoi

Fellow dreamers, take the time to contemplate my fresco. It honors these valiant knights, their destinies linked in this epic tournament at the foot of the cliffs of Roque Saint-Christophe! There, on the left, I painted this young knight with a lion, dressed in his purple armor and prancing on his immaculate steed. Opposite him, I immortalized this ferocious champion wearing the dragon on his azure breastplate! I think he is in a mad mood, riding a stallion with a gray coat like a day without bread. But suddenly, the trumpets sound and the champions take flight, their flaming lances pointed to the heavens, ready to strike like lightning… But as I trace the final details of this fresco, I leave it to your imagination to decide the winner. Who of the two won this tournament and won the heart of the noble Isabeau? The passionate lion, or the untamed dragon? I can’t remember, but if you feel like it, ask the mischievous Antòni to whisper to you the lucky winner of this formidable tournament. Stay curious, he might slip a sign where you least expect it.

08 La Chapel

08 la chapelle

Welcome, dear friends, this shadow filled with mystery, and this tranquility offered in these holy places. Here stood the church of La Roque Saint Christophe! Likewise, there was a priory and a small hermitage. Open your heart, and imagine the reassuring light of the candles casting their flickering lights. Feel the wind of yesteryear bringing back, like an offering, the distant chant of the pious monks. The moon, with its diaphanous clarity, casts the shadow of the forgotten vaults. Look, many fireflies invading the rock shelter like so many twirling souls, bearers of blessings, protections and luck to come… Oh my dear companions in reverie, perched thus, closer to the stars than to the earth, I confess to feeling the clemency of a profound peace. And you, do you feel it the same?

09 The enchanted Vézère

09 la vézere enchantée

Dear friends, the time has come to reveal to you a great secret that Antòni was able to confide to me in his time. Lady Moon, with her silvery light, illuminates the forest and the banks of the Vézère. Many creatures, under the starry vault, come stealthily to drink the clear waters of the Vézère. During the day, game is hunted there, herbs are gathered, but at dusk, these woods are not the territory of men. But do not think that only deer, wolves, wild boars, and other foxes come to drink… Not so! In the tall grass, the little people of the Fades dance beautiful farandoles with the rabbits. And suffer to learn that between man and wolf, there is the werewolf, that between the hare and the profane, there is the Leberou thus transformed to atone for his sins! And know that the water of the Vézère is so pure that the unicorn comes to quench its thirst there. But at dawn, all these creatures vanish… In order to honor this world of the night playing with our imagination and preluding our beautiful reveries, I painted this fresco which strangely deforms as the reflections of water approach. What we believe to be is only the dream born of our imagination.

11 The Dragon and the Coulobre

11 le dragon

Just as day opposes night, and virtue fights vice, the graceful unicorn finds itself confronted by the terrible dragon. In our country, his name is lo Coulobre! Under the cloak, they say he is hideous! Full of claws! Full of teeth! Quick as lightning, precise as thunder! I am not a coward but… but it is said that this monster breathes fire! Fire, do you hear me? Devilishness! Suffer to learn that here, on Passion Sunday in the year of grace one thousand four hundred and one, the castle, the town, the church of La Roque Saint-Christophe were reduced to ashes! I fear greatly that the worst creatures of our fableries are as cruel as man… It was Jean de Beaufort, a sad sire, hateful towards Lord Adhémar de la Roque, who had this place burned down during the so-called Hundred Years’ War. But no turmoil, my friends, just like the phoenix rising from its ashes, La Roque-Saint Christophe was slowly rebuilt by the craftsmen of our lands! Let us continue my friends, I will introduce you to them.

13 La Forge

So enjoy the sweet torpor of this enchanted night, for many winters ago, many craftsmen toiled here with a roar! Each had his importance in the symphony of beautiful work, and the incessant hammering of the forge would not have lulled you, dear friends, nor even the bellows fanning the fire! You should have seen him, our blacksmith covered in a leather apron, working like a devil in a holy water font! The regular rhythm of each percussion, repeated thousands of times, tirelessly, at equal intervals, like the beating of a heart, without even letting his arm or his breathing weaken, created a perfectly regulated music. This strange melody grants the metal the harmony necessary for the perfect weapon, or the solidity essential to the required tool. Do you hear it whistle? Do you perceive this orchestra of fire and iron? With the help of your imagination, the darkness fades, replaced by the warm glow of the embers. The forge can finally come back to life!

14 Lifting machines and old trades

Here, in La Roque Saint-Christophe, many craftsmen were established. Are you ready to meet them? For at all times, we must honor them. This fresco serves as their memory. The blacksmith, master of fire and iron, shaping, under showers of sparks, treasures of metal! Let us not forget the carpenter, master of wood and the axe, building many houses and frameworks. He alone could thus raise, like beasts of burden, our great construction machines, such as the well winch or the squirrel cage! And let us not forget the potter, master of earth and water, modeling with his skillful hands works of clay on his singing wheel. Oh, and my fresco would have been incomplete if I had ignored the weaver, mistress of thread and loom, intertwining shimmering threads, creating tapestries woven with dreams and legends. And of course, to beautifully complete this fresco, I had to find the stonemason, master of rock and chisel, sculpting wonders hidden in the hardness of the limestone. Thus I colored this fresco in homage to my artisan friends, who shape the world with their hands and weave beauty into the ordinary.

15 The Donkey Stable

Here, no imaginary creature, dear companions, but one of man’s oldest friends. This little gray donkey, as you meet him, is one of the most devoted and courageous inhabitants of the citadel. What would the work of the land, or that of the craftsman, be without this precious ally? Without ever weakening, he makes himself useful for many and many labors. His strength and endurance make him trample the earth from matins until vespers rings in the bell tower, carrying flour to the baker, stone to his cutter, or coal to the blacksmith. No one could do without his bravery. Do not fear his kicks and gallops, dear companions. This one is the gentlest and most faithful of equines. Yet mocked, in favor of his palfrey cousins, proud steeds carrying nobles and knights. However, few of them would know how to place their hoofs skillfully enough to navigate this steep rock. It might even be that for one night, you would be allowed to enjoy its gentle warmth, bed of hay, and blessed comfort.

16 The career

16 la carriere le charpentier

Hear ye, fellow dreamers, as the moon fades, here is one of my latest frescoes in the hollow of this alcove. In my heart resonates an unfailing admiration for these masters of craftsmanship, who, with many wooden beams and many rope-making machines, forged these fabulous machines: capstan, drum winch, outrigger crane, squirrel wheels, so many precious tools used to build these impregnable fortresses and celestial dwellings almost touching the heavens. Many craftsmen, in the fervor of the construction sites, built these edifices that proudly dominate the hills of Périgord. May our children remember these builders and honor their heritage by working for beauty. By the wisdom of the ancients, may their know-how never be forgotten.

18 The library

18 la bibliotheque

Before dawn, when the sun rises again to offer us a new day, and before its rays fade the magic of my colored pigments, I wish to present to you one last fresco. Why did I want to represent this scribe and all these beautiful parchment works, you might ask? Well, dear friends, because books have the power to preserve the memory of beautiful things, and Antòni, by one of his beautiful enchantments, possesses a quill with strange powers. Whoever leaned the words on a sheet could, in this way and with the magic of his imagination, rewrite history as he saw fit. I would have so much wished, one last time, to entrust to a scribe armed with this quill, the memories of my enchanted rock, so that, like the phoenix, it would rise from its ashes, and that nobles and onlookers would live again, surveying my dear cliff. My old friend used to say: “If by misfortune you are ignorant of history, your head must be quite deprived of it. For you then forget that you are like a leaf, unaware that it is part of a tree.” I therefore entrust its memory to you, companions in reverie, so that the wisdom of the ancients, nor the beauty of times gone by, may never fall into oblivion. Take away a little magic and, with your wisdom, rewrite history, no matter the pen. May my citadel rise from its ashes, and may the magic of our enchanted rock return. Yes, my good friends, young and old, I wish you beautiful dreams and a joyful heart!

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